How to Add a Button Placket to a Garment

You can create your own simple pattern for a button placket and learn how to sew it to a top or bodice.

SUPPLIES USED

Spiegel 60609 Sewing Machine:
http://www.spiegel.com/Sewing/b/12554...


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Sewing machine used was provided by Spiegel.

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Closed Caption:

hi I'm tova with Professor pincushion
and in today's tutorial I'm going to
show you how to add a button placket
also known as a partial placket to your
tops or bottoms 'as the placket opens up
the neckline making a fit neckline
easier to get on but it can also be
added as a design detail
I'll be doing my example in cotton but
you can also do this with its first i'll
show you how to create an easy pattern
for your pocket and then we'll move on
to assembly
let's go ahead and get started
first what you need to do is determine
your finished length and width of the
pocket
so for me what i'm going to do is I'm
just laying out my buttons how I would
like it and I'm just doing an example
here but you need to make sure that you
take into account that there's going to
be a seam allowance here still doesn't
matter if you're doing is facing a
collar or whatever the necklace don't
need to be finished so i'm going to be
losing five eighths of an inch on top
here so just take that into account and
just shift your buttons accordingly
but i'm going to say okay so at this
point this is how I would like my
buttons
we're gonna pretend there was a placket
here and i'm going to measure down to
where I wanted to end so I'm just going
to say ok I wanted to be six inches from
top to the bottom of my pocket and then
the finished with and that's really
determined by how big your buttons are
I usually like to have a quarter inch on
each side of the button so we make sure
it's not too small of a pocket but you
also don't want it to be too big
so if I measure this and then I add a
half inch because it's a quarter and
quarters that makes a half we'll just
keep it easy and I'll say okay my
finished with my pocket is going to be 1
inch we can use our measurements for the
finish length and width in order to
create a very basic pattern for us
so you're basically creating a rectangle
so for the length this side is going to
be your finish length plus about two
inches
I'm just picking two inches you can do
more you can do a little bit less but
two inches is a good number
so again I want my finish lengths to be
six inches going to add two inches to
that that's going to be eight inches for
the width of our pattern is going to be
5 times whatever desired finished with
is plus a half inch this half inches
four seam allowance so I wanted to
finish with to be one inch
so I'm going 5 times 1 plus a half
inches five and a half
so my rectangles eight inches by five
and a half
I draw my rectangle on some powder paper
five and a half by eight inches and i'm
going to take the with side so usually i
think for most of us is going to be the
shorter side you're going to
take this length you're going to divide
it in half and then draw a line right
down the center here is that centered
line then i'm going to be drawing on my
stitch line so that's the screen line
here to way to figure that out is you're
going to take your finished with for
example mine is 1 inch that I want my
finished with to be and I'm going to
imagine it's placed right on the center
of the center line here so if I was to
measure over here
it's a half inch here it's a half inch
and if you go from green line to green
line
that's one inch so I'm just taking that
with dividing on in half and that's what
i do on each side
it goes down to whatever you want you're
finished lengths to be so for me that
six inches so from here to here is six
inches and that's where my stitching
line ends so this is now my basic
pattern for my pocket and I'm going to
cut one out of my fabric and one out of
my interfacing apply the interfacing to
the wrong side of your fabric piece i'm
going to be using fusible interfacing
so I'm going to look at the wrong side
of my fabric and then with the fusible
interfacing you have the glue side so it
has a little bit of a texture that goes
towards the wrong side
I already have my iron heating up and
put my press cloth over it to protect it
and then just dampen it grabbed my iron
and i'm going to carefully set it down
in one section for a few seconds and
carefully lift up my iron and move it
over to the next section until the
fusible interfacing is attached to the
wrong side
take your front bodice piece place it so
it's wrong side facing up and i'm going
to draw with my fabric marker a line
down the center of the bodice so this is
cutting my neck line in half and where
the pockets going to go and if you look
at my plaque at peace now with the
interfacing on the wrong side i have my
center line and then i have my stitch
lines transferred from my pattern
I'm going to Center this inner line with
this line right here so it's easier if
you make this line a little bit longer
than your fabric piece that makes it a
little bit easier to match up and you're
going to pin
into place because then we're going to
take it to our sewing machine and we're
going to stitch right on our stitch line
not on the center line just on this dash
line that I have I'm going to follow my
lines with a regular straight stitch
when i get to the corner
I'm just going to put my needle down
lift my foot and then rotate the fabric
and then i can continue on
so again following the stitch lines
don't forget to do a back stitch and the
beginning and end of your stitch use
your fabric scissors to cut on the
center line so I flip this around now
this is the neckline right here
so down the center line you're going to
stop about a half inch from the end and
then cut to each corner being careful
not to cut any of your stitches along
this edge
here's the cut down the middle and you
can see I made a little white at the end
with my scissors
so it's just a little triangle down here
I'm not going to go in with my scissors
and now that this is cut apart it makes
it a little bit easier you're going to
trim most of this away
so you're leaving just a quarter inch of
fabric
pastor stitches so I'm doing on this
side the side and also at the bottom
your pocket should look like something
like this on each of my length edges now
I'm going to fold over a quarter of an
inch and i'm going to press this i'm
doing on this side and then on this site
as well flip your body is over so you're
looking at the right side and we're
going to start with the left part of
this opening here i'm going to take this
placket going to pull it out and you'll
see you have this seam allowance right
here so you want to press this
so it's going towards the placket and
you just want to take this other part is
kind of fold it out of the way now this
is the part that we just created worry
folded over a quarter of an inch and
pressed it and you're going to take this
folded edge here bring it over so that
the edge lines up with your stitch line
so you can see my stitches but if you
can see your stitches
that's where your matching up the fold
line and then you're going to pin it
into place and i would say press it
against you end up with a nice crisp
edge over here and you're taken to your
sewing machine
and stitch right along the edge but
you're going to stop when you get to the
end
so this is where it would go down and
then pivot across so for me that's my
six inches down so i would stop right
here
when i'm sewing this into place
i'm sticking this about an eighth of an
inch away from the folded edge and again
it's just a regular straight stitch and
don't forget to back stitch this side is
stitch down so now we're going to work
on the other side so I basically took my
placket and brought it all over to the
right side so it looks something like
this
this next step is a little tricky you
want to make sure that this seam
allowance is pressed again towards this
right placket because we are going to be
folding it over and just for now I'm
just going to fold it over just to show
you what i do so we have this part
folded underneath this and we want to
make sure that this is going to overlap
this placket so all I'm going to do is
just after a folder just kind of bring
it over and down here it kind of forms
like an accordion so let me show you
that again
so this is stitch into place
I had brought it all forward you can see
this is flatter neat there so I fold
this over like this
I fold this over my seam allowance on
this side and then I overlap it with
this plaque it over here because you
want it to lie
nice and flat like this so i would go
ahead do this
you can go ahead and start pinning us
into place just up here at the top and
then press it just so it looks as nice
as possible
stitch along this folded edge and make
sure that you pull this apart
so we're not actually stitching through
this your stitching down to you get to
the bottom of the opening so for me that
would be my six inches down and you
don't need to stitch any further down
right now here's the bottom of my pocket
currently so where I stopped stitching
at my six inch mark I have all this
extra part right here
I'm going to measure down about an inch
and a quarter and i'm going to go ahead
and trim this
so all this is going to get trimmed off
and then
going to go from these bottom layers
here and i'm going to turn them just a
little bit shorter because we are
eventually going to take what's left and
we're going to fold it under a quarter
of an inch and that's going to cut down
some of the bulk so we don't have to
stitch through all this fabric
i turn the bottom and if i was to lift
this you can see how much I trimmed on
this bottom layer here
so making sure everything is lined up
here so it's all even then i'm going to
turn this under a quarter of an inch and
pin it into place to finish off at the
bottom you're going to stitch a design
that looks like this is essentially a
box and then you're just going to do an
X in the center of it
if your machine has a little bit of
trouble going through with all the
layers because you're going through this
layer and then you're also going through
the bodice so my yellow fabric as well
so this gets stitched down to this
you may want to use a walking foot and a
heavy-duty needle at this point our
placket is complete
so I have my ex in a box down here we
have the top placket the bottom placket
let's go ahead and take a look at the
wrong side looks pretty nice even on the
wrong side there now this is done more
towards the front of the assembly of
your bodice or shirt if you're going to
do something like button holes to it
you're going to want to do that towards
the end of the assembly so at this point
you would continue on creating the rest
of your top or bodice for buttholes i
recommend putting them on the top
placket and buttons go on the bottom
placket if you need help in doing
machine buttonholes i recommend you
check out our tutorial sewing machine
button holes for assistance
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